Target was a reading of 43 to 64 on the computer pressure reading. About $125.00 at the dealer but I found it for about half on line. Said it was more accurate than the dip stick, which is an insanely priced special tool. I took it back to San Diego MB and th tech plugged in the computer. Sweet!!!Īdded 5.5quarts (per tech's instruction) fresh Mobile 1, 5w-40, 15,000 mile oil vs 0w-40 for this climate and replaced the filter.Ī good tip is to add oil through the filter base, it's faster and cleaner. Insert the line in dipstick tube, clamped the other end to an empty 5 quart Mobile one container.įlip the swtich and pumped out 5.3 quarts in about 3 minutes. Remove filter first for adequate air flow Went to Hipp Marine about 5 minutes from the dealer.īought a SEADOG #501060-3, $26.00. He reccomended I get a small 12 volt electric pump from one of the local Marine supply stores. He started talking shop more when I told him I did most of the work on my last two M3's. After he got over his initial surprise that I was attempting to do the job myself he gave me some good advise. I stopped by and spoke with one of the 'quick service' techs here in San Diego named Dennis. And this is not a part of Service A or Service B (for some reason).This is my first post. They are cheap and you don't need any tools - I only used a scissors, and they don't even clamp. So, I highly recommend that on an older car (mine is a 2003) you simply check the hoses first. It has been over a week and the check engine has not come back on (and usually it was back on in 3 days). I went to AutoZone and for $3 bought length enough to replace both little hoses. I took my C230 home after the B service, and opened the hood to look at the hoses and one little hose literally fell apart in my hands. I mentioned this to my mechanic and he pooh-poohed it. I googled different P0410 issues, and one was hoses. In California it won't pass with a check engine light. My mechanic said I needed to pay him $100 to run diagnostics and then whatever the repairs were. I bought a cheap OBD II reader, to make sure P0410 was my only problem (it wasn't once I had to replace my gas cap). I have had this code for some time now, and only got serious lately as my (California) smog check loomed. I found the shutoff valve which looks like the check valve is just right next to it about a foot away and is very accessable. My engine differs a little bit on the photo.

I should not have any problems with the plugs since I replaced them new with 4 prongs early this yr. The cold start definitely is very rough, which feels like after turning the engine ON - I have to rev the gas once since it seems like the engine will not be able to start and would just die if I let it. Although, yesterday I checked and found there is still power going through the kompressor which IMO, the kompressor is not damanged. I'm not very familiar on the schematics of the engine and will try out this method and see. The boost is totally gon from the kompressor and I guess maybe from this thread it is due to the check valve being shut which the air isn't going through the engine. Well, I'm still driving the benz since then. I just wonder how it managed to mess the MAF sensor as well. I just got the P0100 and P0410 codes a couple days ago for my 2K C230 Kompressor 150K miles I just replaced my MAF Sensor Last yr from Ebay (non orig part for $40) I guess that did not last long.

C230 mercedes benz kompressor